(((listen))) Tuesday Morning:

(((listen))) Tuesday Evening:

TUESDAY: Our initial plan was to first go to Medina Munawwarah. However, since we had arrived in Jeddah on the 1st of Dhul Hijjah, (The Saudi Authorities do not allow pilgrims to go to Medina Munawwarah as from the 1st Dhul Hijjah) the authorities had advised that we go to Makkah Mukarramah along with the other Sudanese Pilgrims.

At the port we also met with a brother from Jeddah, Ismail Mohammed (a stranger to us as we did not meet before. Br Ismail was following our trip on the Radio Islam blog, and he wanted to meet with us.) He offered to host us and spent some time with us entertaining us with food and refreshments etc.

After Esha, about forty buses had come to Madinatul Hujjaaj to fetch the Sudanese Pilgrims. We had to go along with them to Makkah Mukarramah.

Upon arrival in Makkah Mukarramah, we were taken first to ‘Office No 1’ (this is the South African Muassasah Office in Makkah Mukarramah). Here we handed over our passports and then proceeded to the Haram. One may have thought that after travelling for almost Twenty-Two days, we were exhausted and needed some rest, but it was not so. We were enthusiastic to see the Holy Kabah. One can imagine the feeling of the three of our brothers who had come to Makkah for the first time in their lives.

When we got to Makkah Mukarramah we also met with our Ustaadh and colleague, Qari Sauleh Peck; and our colleague, Moulana Abdul Fattaah Carr of Cape Town. Maulana Umar Makki and Maulana Uthmaan Makki (also our colleagues) are hosting us in Makkah Mukarramah.

We proceeded to the Haram at about 01:30 and did Umrah.

We must stress the ecstasy and overwhelming enjoyment and feeling we had experienced when our first sight fell onto the Holy Kabah. Especially, after re-calling the long journey that we had undertook by land. We just could not believe that we were there, right in front of the House of Allah SWT.

The crowd was huge, as it was the 1st ten days of Dhul Hijjah and it was increasing all the time. We had seen many buses with many Hujjaaj coming in from Medina Munawwarah as well.

It took us about 45 minutes to do the Tawaaf and about an hour to do the Sa’ee. At about 04:15, we had completed with our Umrah, Alhamdulillah.

We waited until Fajr Salaah in the Haram, and thereafter had some tea and rested. Our accommodation is quite comfortable, Alhamdulillah.

The crowds are huge in Makkah Mukarramah. If one wants to read in the Haram one must stay there from after the previous Salaah. e.g.; about Two hours before Fajr Salaah, the Haram is already full and there is no chance to get to the front.

(((listen))) Monday Morning:

(((listen))) Monday Evening:

MONDAY: We managed to embark on the ship on Sunday night at 21:30 and travelled all night long on the Red-Sea. This morning we docked in at the Port of Jeddah, all excited Alhamdulillah!

It was a big ship carrying about 3000 passengers. The atmosphere was amazing and the feeling was indescribable. The trip was quite enjoyable. We were booked on the upper deck without any cabins. So, we slept on benches on the upper dock. It reminded us of the verses of the Quran describing travel by sea.

Since, this particular ship was delayed for so long and also an accident earlier in the week it has attracted a lot of media attention. A possible uproar from the Sudanese Hujjaj caused both, the governments of Sudan and Saudi Arabia to intervene and make sure that the ship leaves. In fact, as we were docking today in Jeddah, helicopters and police boats were hovering around the ship.

As we docked in today, the Hujjaj were in a state of ecstasy. Wearing their Ihraam and calling out the Labbaik. An even amazing thing we realized was that we are lucky as South Africans to be young and able to perform Haj. The Sudanese only have this opportunity once in their lifetime and yet when they are old. So, one can imagine the excitement and ecstasy look on their faces.

Before we were allowed to disembark from the ship, the health ministry came on board and provided the pilgrims with tablets (anti-biotics) and drops to take. This process took about an hour. Whilst we were waiting on the ship, an official came to us and took away our Tanazzul and passports from us.

By the time we got off from the ship we proceeded towards the immigration and to our amazement the brother had already processed all of our documents for us. So, there was no need for us to wait again in immigration. We have learnt that truly, Allah SWT does with means; without means; and with all means.

After disembarking from the ship we were taken to a place called ‘Madinatul Hujjaj’. This is the place where the pilgrims who come in, especially by ship have to go through immigration procedures. There are thousands of Hujjaaj here, all of them wearing the Ihraam and preparing to proceed to Makkah Mukarramah.

We too will be going to Makkah Mukarramah from here. The buses are gathering to take us. The feeling is also amazing with the people calling out Labbayk and in the state of Ihraam.

ALHAMDULILLAH! WE HAVE REACHED OUR DESTINATION!!!

(((listen)))

SUNDAY: We are still in Port Sudan today, proceeding by bus to Port Suakin. There are quite a few buses leaving with Pilgrims and lots of noise and greetings from the people here. We understand that the bulk of the people are at Port Suakin. The masses of the pilgrims will be departing from there.

We are the only five foreigners, the rest of the Pilgrims are the local Sudanese People.

If we do leave by tonight, then hopefully by some time tomorrow morning we will be reaching our destination, Jeddah Insha Allah!

Alhamdulillah, we have accepted the decree of Allah Ta’aala and we will go with it all the way. Our wait in Sudan for the past whole week has given us a chance to enhance even more spiritually.

In terms of the weather, it is quite hot 35 c. The humidity is not as bad.

The buses we are travelling on are ordinary buses (small half-loafs). The Sudanese Pilgrims carry their luggage in boxes and plastic drums, filled with grain. The local water is fresh and drinkable.

Insha Allah! we will be returning to Port Suakin later. There are many police check-points at the ports and one must have a confirmed ticket to go through.

(((LISTEN))) FRIDAY MORNING:

FRIDAY MORNING: We are on our way to a place called Mena, which is in Port Suakin. This is where we will be boarding the ship, which we have booked for this afternoon towards Jeddah, Insha Allah!

The ship is unbelievably huge, carrying about 3000 passengers.

The road to Mena is very remote and the reception is bad. Unfortunately, due to some hiccups with the ship we were unable to leave on Friday.

(((listen))) TUESDAY EVENING:

(((listen))) WEDNESDAY MORNING:

(((listen))) THURSDAY EVENING:

TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY: We have just finished Maghrib Salaah at the Masjid in Suakin, and we are sitting at the road side, drinking some refreshing tea and enjoying the warm Sudanese breeze. The tea we are having was just made now on an open fire.

We are still at the Port of Suakin and all day today we tried to negotiate for an earlier booking, but in vain. The main reason for this is that there are over 200 000 Sudanese Pilgrims that will be going from here. However, we are booked for Friday.

We are staying in a simple hotel. The beds are made of straw; the electricity comes and goes every now and then; the bathrooms are outside (communal); the water is taken from a well; and there aren’t any tar roads. It brings back some memories of how the Sahabah lived.

We are enjoying every bit of the time spent here in Port Suakin. The local people are entertaining us well. They took us out earlier for some delicious fish from the Red-Sea at an eating place next to the ‘Great Ruins’, which was once a palace of a British conqueror.

These travels have truly lifted us spiritually and mentally. By meeting different people from different walks of life one’s mind opens up. We have come to understand how the people of different countries are close to Allah Ta’aala in their own way. The humbleness and politeness of the people.

As it is very well said, that ‘travelling is a teacher’. We have learnt a lot indeed. In fact, just today (being Thursday night) we heard an inspiring talk by one of the learned Shuyookh here in Suakin. A good quality of the Sudanese people that we have observed is that almost all of them are dressed in Sunnah Garb (white) 24/7, and they at all times wear the Turban.

The Wudhu (ablution) is made without wastage. ie taken from the well and poured into a jug.

There are many Sufis around here with daily Thikr Majlises.

There are not any butchers here. The locals slaughter the animal in the morning and sell it to others the same day.

Our booking is confirmed for Friday morning Insha Allah! Towards Jeddah by ship.